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The Ballistically Optimized Muzzleloading Bullet is a custom made, swaged cup and core rifle bullet for high performance muzzleloaders. The Low Drag profile offers excellent flight characteristics while the flat base offers a great seal for consistent muzzle velocities. The B.O.M.B is made with a tapered jacket and pure lead core that allows for easy sizing and immediate obturation in the bore upon firing. It has an open tip design that allows for excellent on target performance with reliable expansion.
The Monotlithic Ballistically Optimized Muzzleloading Bullet is a custom bullet, precision turned from soft red copper on CNC Swiss lathes and incorporates Pergrine Bullets' patented pneumatic tip that ensures reliable expansion while the homogeneous copper design offers the ultimate in weight retention and penetration. The M.-B.O.M.B is softer than any other turned bullet on the market and does which eliminates annealing for sizing or precision. It is offered in flat base and boat-tail configurations for smooth and full form sizing.
Recommended Minimum Twists: 1-28" (300gn & 302gn) , 1-24" (344n)
Minimum Impact Velocity: 1600fps
Jacket Thickness(BOMB): .030" at base tapered to .021" at meplat
Ballistic Coefficient: The 300gn M-BOMB: .330 G1 at 3000fps, .310 G1 at 2500fps, .290 G1 at 2000fps, .240 G1 at 1150fps and below.
The 302gn BOMB: .350 G1 at 3000fps, .330 G1 at 2500fps, .310 G1 at 2000fps, .260 G1 at 1150 and below.
The 344gn BOMB: is .400 G1 at 3000fps, .380 at 2500fps, .360 at 2000fps, .300 G1 at 1150fps and below.
At the request of a friend I reposted this from a post I made in 2014 on a forum we used. It was posted over several weeks of nickel and diming the project so I have edited it to remove all the extraneous commentary from the forum:
This project is way over-due but I am gone a lot and I have to work on things every few months as I can. I chose to call this project the Green Beanie (they will understand why) in tribute to the two men who have made it possible. Matt is a local retired guy who has a gunsmith shop up the road and gives me free run of the place to do things I don’t have tools for at home. Mike is a friend, brother in arms, and an artist with metal: more to follow on that when I post the complete project. I don’t get to see him as freely as I would like but he has been inspirational as a man and artisan.
My wife bought me a Boyd’s Tacticool stock for my rimfire trainer an Christmas or two back. I really like the stock and bought one for this SML. The more I shoot the Tacticool the more I realize it is not quite right for me. The grip is too much and could stand some more taper from tang to wrist. The forearm is beaver-tailed and too fat for a psuedo-sporter. The Tacticool barrel channel is for a Varmint/Sendero channel and as a result left a unsightly gap around my barrel. I used a modified Douglas 5A contour on this gun so I taped the barrel and full-length bedded the gun so that when the tape was removed I had .040" of float from the recoil lug forward. To reduce the forearm I used a plane and cut the beavertail down parallel to the top edge of the forearm and all hard edges were radiused. Using the McMillan ADJ GameScout I am smitten with, I sketched the reduction in the stock tang/wrist area and began to work it down with a rasp (not a great tool for laminate as it is very “chippy”). I changed over to a cabinet maker file and orbital sander. The comb is too low to allow for a good cheek-weld using a 20MOA off-set base and low Night Force rings so I molded, cut-down, and sanded a cheek-piece from Multi-Cam Kydex with an American flag to keep in tradition with the rifle’s theme. Once I had it close to completion I mounted it on the stock and drilled the hardware holes though the Kydex and into the stock.
I am not anywhere near done but it was time to take a coffee break and eat second breakfast. I still need to clean up the bedding as well as epoxy in the cheek-piece bushings, QD Push-button inserts, and bi-pod m1913 rail bushings. When all the prep-work is done I will primer the stock, cut the stencils, and paint the entire stock to match the cheek-piece. Was this the easiest way to get what I wanted? Absolutely not. Ordering another GameScout would have been much easier but some of us are diseased.
Tacticool stripped of textured black paint, drilled for hardware, bedded, and ready for shaping (note: you can see where the stock has cross-pins and you can’t see it but at the bottom of the pistol-grip there is another plug where they epoxy a pin into the grip just like you should in wood vertical grip stock which checked off one item from my to-do list):
The bedding before clean up (the overflow was allowed so I had proud material to allow for the reshaping of the grip and to allow for a better fit of the ejection port cutout in the stock as it left a lot to be desired). The stock was ordered as an ADL since they don’t offer a 40-X inlet and they only do a 700ML in a thumbhole so the mag box cutout was filled with cutdown carbon arrows (which I have broken while stump shooting with my longbow) and everything epoxied in place:
Rough sketch of grip reduction to occur and holes for cheeck-piece hardware (the comb on the Tacticool is too low for a 20MOA base with low NF rings):
Kydex cheek-piece (only .080" thick so as not to remove eye far from center-line of comb):
Tacticool in relation to GameScout which it is going to resemble soon:
You can see little pock marks where the trigger pin holes were filled to prevent a mechanical lock. They are ugly so I cut them out. Honestly, I don’t know that it is necessary but it looks better. Since I didn’t have Matt’s mill I used my drill press with drill press vise and a router bit. I line up where I want the recesses and use the depth stop on the press to make as uniform a cut as possible. I make a small cut, again and again, to the desired depth so that the bit doesn’t walk:
I mentioned I wrapped the barrel with tape and full length bedded it to fill the barrel channel which was a gross mismatch for my contour. You can keep good tight wraps on the barrel shank and straight taper but the radius just forward of the breech gets little wrinkles and there are fine lines where the wraps of tape meet along the length of the barrel. So I put two wraps of tape the entire length of the barrel and took a strip of 150 grit aluminum oxide cloth, tightened the action down and cut back the barrel channel bedding just enough to remove blemishes then prepped it for paint.
I also removed the proud bedding material along the top stock line where the ejection port cutout formerly was a poor fit:
Grip Reduction complete and blended with the angle of the tang:
I decided not to dish out the “thumb flute” (if you will but it is not a flute in the traditional sense but it is not the wrist either) as it looks awfully thin once the grip/wrist reduction was finished. Thumb-holes are thinner I believe but they remind me of an H-brace in a fence and I think they probably distribute the recoil force better. Regardless, I stopped once it felt good enough to quit.
I also epoxied in the brass bushings for the cheek-piece hardware. I use Loc-Tite 5-minute epoxy for things like this. They use a 10x32 machine screw and are available through Brownells:
A few weeks back I received my breech plug lapping tool. Today, while I was waiting on some epoxy to set, I worked the BP shoulder over. I used three different cameras trying to get a good picture. This is the best I got for my efforts and shows an evenly polished shoulder:
I off-set it to the upper portion of the stock because if you don’t the gun will tend to tip away from you when slung because the barreled action and optic make them top heavy:
I learned that the hard way when I ordered them pre-installed on the McMillan:
The forward insert is 13" ahead of the trigger-guard and lines up with where the insert in the M1913 rail on bottom goes for the bi-pod mount:
It’s time to paint the stock on the Green Beanie. I masked the bedding, recoil pad, and plugged the threaded inserts for the cheek-piece so we don’t get paint anywhere I don’t want it. I then used a paint and primer color that is a grey/tan/slate color with a slight pink hue. It is a good base color for a Multi-Cam type pattern:
While it is drying I took a piece of wax paper and taped it so that the taped over lapped and drew my stencils:
Once the primer/paint combo dried I faded a flat tan into it in patches. I don’t know that you can tell in the picture:
To create light spots I lay in the decals and then paint over them in a dark brown as they should be grouped together:
The blue decals will be dark chocolate colored and are paired with the grey/tan color from the picture above. I just did the reveal on the match rifle skins and they are sitting next to the Green Beanie stock. My dark brown paint wasn’t playing nice with the plastic of the skins so I am going to have to go back and add it in but the Green Beanie should finish up similar to those skins.
I am going to let the brown dry overnight and tomorrow I will do the last two coats. To get the mid fade you need a light loam green and a red brown color. The goal is about a 50-50 coverage running in stripes that have some fade to them. I run them at a diagonal so that when I come back for the next coat I can run the other direction (criss-cross) to achieve a non-polarizing effect:
Now that we have a micro detail in light grey/tan and dark brown and macro detail in loam green and red brown we need larger pattern stencils. Macro detail in place over mid fade:
And final fade is tan, olive drab green, and another weird but slightly brighter loam green:
All decals removed you have something that looks similar to Multi-Cam. It just needs to sit in the garage a while to ensure that the paint is completely dry and tack free:
The Green Beanie is finished. Quick Re-Cap:
Remington 700ML with Hunter Bolt Nose Kit
PT&G .187" stainless lug
McGowen CM .442/.451", 1-24″ twist barrel in a modified Douglas 5A contour crowned at 23", threaded for a muzzle-break
Trigger is blueprinted factory and adjusted to 2.25#
All CM parts are finished in Graphite Black Cerakote
Scope base is Murphy Ti 10 MOA (Devcon bedded, screws siliconed and torqued to 25 in*lbs)
Boyd’s Tacticool (modified and pillar/glass bedded)
I almost forgot, it balances 1/3" behind the front action screw. Tough to make a 12# rifle balance properly but I almost nailed it.
Every year new optical companies pop up and guys buy from them. Nobody would ever grow to be a great company without support from shooters but a lot of companies make really mediocre stuff. Just because a company is little known does not mean that they do not, or cannot, make good scopes though. Compared to large companies like Leupold, Nikon, Nightforce, etc SWFA is what I would call a little guy. SWFA has been around for a number of years but I would guess most shooters and hunters have not heard of them. They are primarily a a distributor of other companies’ wares but they also have their own line of optics that are called the Super Sniper (affectionately know by their fans as Super Chicken due to the logo) that will hang with any scope out there.
Every year on Black Friday SWFA runs a sale where at a minimum they mark down their optics. Their fixed power scopes are always the best deal and can be bundled with rings, sunshade, and a bubble level at no cost. The variables and HD variables don’t have the option to bundle but you do save some money on them. This past fall I came into possession of one of each of the following through purchase or loan from someone else who took advantage of the Black Friday sale: 6x42mm with Mil-Quad reticle, 3-15x42mm FFP with Mil-Quad, and 5-20x50mm HD FFP with Mil-Quad. Admittedly, all three are very different but all are good to very good buys. After having several months of these scopes sitting around because my life is super busy, I got out and tested all three.
Top to bottom: SS 6x42mm MQ, SS 3-15x42mm FFP MQ, SS 5-20x50mm HD FFP MQ
All of the optics were tested using one of my match rifles because nothing replaces a live fire: bullets don’t lie! This rifle is a Remington 700 action with Benchmark HV barrel that is chambered in .308 Win Palma 95 with a 1-10″ twist. The stock is a Manners Composite Stocks T6A with the Mini-Chassis System which is remarkably stable and repeatable. This rifle is extremely accurate and precise so is a great platform for testing rifle sights. All shooting was done an Atlas bipod and Red Tac ½-Pint rear bag. All ammunition was loaded with 175gn Sierra Match King bullets.
What really matters:
My opinion of the purpose of and requirements for a rifle sight differ from some folks. A rifle scope is a rifle sight first and foremost and an optical instrument second. I care far more about mechanical soundness than I do brilliant optics. If I need to look at something with optics that allow me to discern fine detail I will use an binocular or spotting scope; both are exactly the right place to spend your money on a great glass. Rifle scopes are not for viewing things, they are for shooting things and it is entirely possible to shoot with 1MoA precision using iron sights at 1000yds so I don’t buy that I need super high definition glass in my rifle sight. I just need to be able to resolve enough detail to shoot well and where that usually requires a better set of lenses and engineering is with high magnification. That does not particularly concern me because I rarely shoot with anything over 12x even at 1000yds. I am not saying you do not want or need good glass in a rifle scope but it is not the most important thing by a long shot. On to what counts.
As stated, I am a mechanical reliability, precision, and accuracy type guy. The first thing I will do after zeroing a new rifle sight is shoot a “Tall Target Test” to calibrate the accuracy of my adjustments and to test the ability of the system to return to zero. If a sight cannot return to zero I will not use it. I prefer to use rifle sights that have adjustments that are within 2% of perfect but any decent ballistic calculator will allow for a correction factor.
I shoot these tests a few ways: a group at every 1MRAD, a group at every 5MRAD, or a single group at 15MRAD. If in MoA I would do every 5MoA, every 10MoA, or a single group at 30MoA. I start at my zero shoot two, dial up and shoot, then dial back to zero and shoot again. I had three scopes to test so I elected to shoot every 5MRAD.
The rifle range at my gun club is spot on at every distance beyond 100yds but when they rebuilt the berms a couple of years ago the dropped the berm at 100yds on center and the target boards at 93yds. All of these scopes that I have on hand are MRAD so each milliradian is equal to 3.348″ instead of the 3.600″ it would be equal to at 100yds.
In all three scopes the most error showed up in the first 5MRAD and decreased as I dialed out which I guess is what you want if you have to deal with error. The error is easily corrected for with your ballistic app and equally important is that all three scopes returned to zero although with the two standard scopes each had a round out of group when shooting return to zero. It always possible it was my fault but it looks like the same precision all the way up the tall target with those two scopes. I used a military surplus M118LR for the first two scopes and when I got the HD in my hands a couple of weeks later I was using my handloads for an upcoming match. In sum, I have no reservations about using any of these scopes based on this test.
Features common to all:
The tube length on all three scopes is between 5.75 and 6 inches so you can set up your rings to span nearly the entire tube for support but will have enough rail that you can move the scope fore or aft by .5 to 75 inches to get eye-relief properly positioned. Each has a minimum of 3.5″ of eye-relief (6x42mm) to a maximum of 4.2″ (3-15x42mm) which is an important consideration if using them on a heavily recoiling rifle.
Eye relief is decent but is fairly critical; that is to say the
“eyebox” is a little tight if you like the modern lingo that dumbs it
down. The scope tube diameter for all is 30mm and each scope has between 30 and 40MRAD of adjustment (about 104 to 140MoA) which is a lot.
SWFA SS 6x42mm with Mil-Quad:
Overall, this is a very decent optic that sells for around $300 dollars. Mine was bundled with rings, a bubble level, and a sunshade. The rings are a 6-screw ring made from aluminum and appear to be very nearly identical to the Burris MTAC rings. They are light and they are functional but I do not expect them to be as rugged as a steel ring or a Nightforce aluminum ring with titanium crossbolt (SWFA recommends 40 in-lbs compared to 65 in-lbs with NF if that is any indication). They are a bulky too but pretty is as pretty does unless it is a really svelte rifle and then looks count too. This scope is dedicated to a .22LR training rifle so I am positive the rings will be just fine. I probably would not use these rings on a big gun.
The scope itself his a little on the heavy side. It weighs in at 20oz or so: about a quarter pound more than a similar sized Leupold but about a quarter pound less than a Bushnell LRHS. For a hunting rig it is a pretty good weight. I would say it is Goldie Locks and the 3 Bears all around: not too heavy, not too light, just right.
The elevation and windage knobs are cheap looking but give your 5MRAD per revolution, are easy to read, and are positive. I would prefer a little lower profile turret for elevation and a capped windage knob as I always hold windage with my reticle. Those are just preferences though and I think that they are quite good for a $300 scope.
The glass is good but not exceptional and I noticed some distortion at the edges. I would say it has a “sweet spot” that is 2/3 or ¾ of the entire field of view and just suffers distortion at the edges. Again, I am not using a rifle scope for viewing and the distortion would never affect my shooting since the entire usable portion of the reticle is in the clear portion of the field of view. The ocular is a fast focus style and the parallax adjustment is on the ocular housing as well instead of on the side or objective lens. It is not as easy to use as a side focus but is easier to use than an adjustable objective. The parallax adjustment is a little tight and it does not take much movement at all to make a large change.
The Mil-Quad reticle is different from scope to scope model from SWFA. The MQ reticle in the 6x is a little heavier than the reticle in other models but is still very usable. I actually prefer the solid diamonds of the 6x to the hollow diamonds of the two variables in this test. It has plenty of hold-over if you need it, small enough wind holds to be precise, and the heavy inverted plex works well for closer shooting.
As a whole this is a very nearly ideal hunting scope. The glass is good, the adjustments are good, the reticle is good, and it is not too heavy. It offers enough magnification to shoot to at least 600yds which covers 99.9% of deer hunting. Considering the cost and the bundle available I can’t imagine needing anything else.
SWFA SS 3-15x42mm FFP with Mil-Quad:
Compared to the fixed power scopes I am not sure this one is worth $300 dollars more but is still a good scope. The fact that this scope is not offered with any bundles on sale fortifies my opinion; that is, if you need rings and a level, or a sunshade. That said, compare features and cost to just about any other optic like a Leupold VX-6 and I think you get a lot.
It is on the heavy side: 24oz just like the Bushnell LRHS but nowhere near the quality of glass or adjustments. The knobs are the same cheap looking knobs that are on the fixed power Super Sniper but they are positive and repeatable. It shares the fast-focus eye-piece of the fixed power but it has a side-focus parallax adjustment. The glass has almost no distortion at the edge of the field of view but you can see in the picture there is a tiny bit of chromatic aberration (that little “halo” you see at the top of the white target board). I have heard some guys cry about CA in an optic but I have never found it to be a distraction when shooting.
The reticle is a little thinner than on the 6x and the diamonds are hollow with a dot in the center. They don’t have the FFP version depicted on their website but this is a fair representation:
For a $600 dollar rifle scope I think this a pretty good buy.
SWFA SS 5-20x50mm FFP HD with Mil-Quad:
The HD version of the Super Sniper seems to be an altogether different animal than the standard scopes. It just looks different: the elevation and windage knobs are more refined looking and feel more crisp, the diopter adjustment is a locking configuration compared to a fast-focus, and the lenses are all HD as the name implies.
Lower profile turrets that are very nearly like a Bushnell DMR/HDMR/ERS/XRS:
I thought the turrets resembled the turrets on a Bushnell DMR except that they do not have a locking feature. They are really quite good. Also, if you dial your elevation the turrets on the HD offer 10MRAD per revolution compared to the 5MRAD you get from the standard line. That makes it harder to get lost in your knob which is the most common error I see with guys who dial elevation.
The parallax knob is stiff but pretty accurate for the yardages listed (compared to the 6x or 3-15x42mm) out to 600m and from there out the infinity setting works. I thought the glass was good throughout the power range with no discernible degradation in image quality. There is still a little CA in this scope but again it is not a big deal to me.
The reticle is the third variant of the Mil-Quad in as many scopes:
The SWFA line of Super Sniper rifle scopes are a good buy that offer good glass and solid mechanics.
I would buy these scopes over a lot of the bigger name brands. They offer everything you need and nothing you do not.
Not what you are paying for but may be what you get when a Kentucky smith tries to get one over on you.